Oh Blitz's Photography World

Vintage Actions by CoffeeShop

noreply@blogger.com (Deedee) — Sat, 25 Apr 2009 00:06:00 +0000

CoffeeShop wrote:

Here is my newest free Photoshop and Photoshop Elements action, CoffeeShop Golden Vintage. I was playing around trying to get a golden color effect that was slightly washed out and came up with this action. I personally love this enhancement and find it also looks beautiful on landscape and flower images.

After the action runs you can adjust the opacity of the Vintage and Darken layers (both have layer masks so you can mask out either effect on parts of your image). There is also a automatic vignette layer. Try toggling the blending mode from Soft Light to Overlay to Multiply and adjusting the opacity of that layer to get the effect that works best for your image. This action is very adjustable so you can get your own unique look.

Download the CoffeeShop Golden Vintage PS/PSE Action HERE !!

How to create sepia image in Photoshop

noreply@blogger.com (Deedee) — Fri, 10 Apr 2009 22:43:00 +0000

Kenneth Setzer wrote " Discover Seven Ways to Create Sepia Images in Photoshop":

Like most things in Photoshop, there are probably a half dozen ways to simulate a sepia tone image. What probably comes to mind when you hear sepia is most likely “old-time” photographs. But why is that so? Well, sepia toning was used for a few reasons, artistic and more prosaic.

True sepia toning began around the 1880s with photographic prints that were exposed to sepia in order to aid in replacing the metallic silver in the photo emulsion with a silver compound. By doing so the developer could change the color, obviously, but also increase the tonal range of the photo. It was also believed that the sepia toning increased the photo’s longevity by replacing the less stable metallic silver. Indeed, a lot of sepia prints remain to this day. Sepia, it turns out, is simply ink extracted from a cuttlefish (the European Common Cuttlefish (Sepia officinalis)), a cephalopod closely related to octopuses and squid!

1. Gradient Map Adjustment Layer
2. Photo Filter Adjustment Layer
3. Black and White Adjustment Layer
4. Color Balance Adjustment Layer
5. Hue Saturation Adjustment Layer
6. Curves Adjustment Layer
7. Solid Color Layer

Creating a duotone in Photoshop can get you even closer to simulating a good sepia tone. But there are two reasons I’m not presenting it here. One, there’s already a great tutorial on duotones right here at Convert Duotones in Photoshop. Second, making a duotone requires some “no-turning-back” operations, like discarding color info, that are best avoided if possible.

There you have it. Seven ways to sepia, and I’m sure you can discover more. Personally, I’m leaning towards using the black and white adjustment layer to remove color, and then creating a solid color adjustment layer above it all to add the sepia tone. This gives you a lot of flexibility. The black and white adjustment layer makes fine tuning your tones easy, and can always be undone and tweaked in the future. The solid color layer lets you change the tint at any time also, and you can more completely control the opacity, and blend mode, of the sepia tint. Best of all, no cuttlefish were harmed in the making of this article.

Eleanor Hardwick

noreply@blogger.com (Deedee) — Wed, 08 Apr 2009 22:16:00 +0000

Just take a look at these photos.
So stunning !!
This talented girl is 15 years old and she started photography at the age of 12. Wouw !!!

Click here

7 Digital Photography Tips For Beginner

noreply@blogger.com (Deedee) — Tue, 07 Apr 2009 10:02:00 +0000

These 7 digital photography tips you can get started on your way to become an excellent photographer if you’d like.

#1. Learn your cameras settings
Chances are you shoot most of your pictures utilizing your camera's "automatic" mode. This will get you average results. If you are striving for great shots, you'll need to learn about other modes too. Take the time to read your camera's manual to understand when to use each shooting mode.

#2. Take more photos
Before going crazy buying the most expensive equipment right away, you had better take more photos because the more photos you take, the more you’ll know about what kind of camera to get when it’s time to upgrade. In other words, you can always delete the bad ones later.

#3. Busting the dust
Digital camera with removable lenses are prone to dust landing on the sensor. Static electricity around the sensor can possibly contribute to attracting dust particles, or other elements to this sensitive area of your camera. You can get rid of the dust is a camera blower brush, and tilt the camera down while blowing. Take care not to get any of the hairs snagged inside.

#4. Use a tripod
A tripod will keep your camera steady which will make your photos clearer.

#5. Shot your subject at different focal length, angles, and formats
Shoot your subject at different focal lengths - using the zoom on your photos will not only change how close your subject appears but it will also change the depth of field (ie the blurring of the background). It also allows you to shoot from different distances which can really impact how relaxed your subject is (there’s nothing better than a photographer in your face to make you tense up)

Shoot your subject from different angles - it’s amazing how much you can change a shot by getting on your knees or taking a few steps to the side.

Shoot using different formats - there are different ways to grip a digital camera. The two main ones are horizontally or vertically but you can also get into all kinds of diagonal ways to do it. Mix it up.

#6. Experiment with different ‘modes’
Even the most basic point and shoot cameras have different ’shooting modes’. These are usually things like ‘portrait’, ‘landscape’, ’sports’, ‘night’ etc. Sometimes it’s worth flicking through these to take shots at different settings. What these modes do is simply change the basic settings (like aperture, shutter speed, ISO) - all things that can change the look and feel of your shot considerably

#7. Play with your Flash
Try turning your flash off or forcing it to fire in shots. Sometimes adding flash to a scene where there’s lots of light behind your subject is essential (even though your camera might not think it needs it). This stops those silhouette shots where it looks like you’re trying to hide the identity on your subject.

To discover the details of those digital photography tips, please visit to Digital Photo Secrets

Really Great Textures by Coffeeshop

noreply@blogger.com (Deedee) — Fri, 03 Apr 2009 23:03:00 +0000

Coffeeshop asked:
If you like these textures and have used them on your photos, I would love for you to post your results to my Flickr group: CoffeeShop Flickr Group (If you have account of Flickr, but if you don't have, you can send her email - coffeeshopphotography [at] yahoo.com). I would also enjoy seeing which textures(s) you used on your photo!

click here

Photos of Fashion Magazine

noreply@blogger.com (Deedee) — Wed, 01 Apr 2009 23:16:00 +0000

I found via my friend's blog.
If you'd most like to have a look at fashion photos, you can just click here

Fashion photographer or designer lists that you can click you curious.

Free Textures by Pareeerica

noreply@blogger.com (Deedee) — Tue, 31 Mar 2009 23:08:00 +0000

Still need much more free textures?
All right, I found this great free textures through flickr.
Awesome, isn't it?

Click here
set 1
set 2
set 3
set 4
set 5
set 6
set 7

Hopefully, you like them!!

Lighting Tutorials - by Roseonthegrey -

noreply@blogger.com (Deedee) — Mon, 30 Mar 2009 11:17:00 +0000

In case that you want to learn about lighting for photography that can be done simple. You can just follow what Rosenonthegrey taught steps on her experience. She is talented photographer.

Rosenonthegrey wrote:

"Ambient window lighting is definitely my favorite type of lighting. It's very even and essentially no set up is needed. Even if it's a sunny day and the light is too strong, just add some sheers in front of the window and you get diffusers".

You can just click here for lighting tutorials.
Happy experimenting !!

Free Actions

noreply@blogger.com (Deedee) — Wed, 25 Mar 2009 10:09:00 +0000

Don't you have time to create great actions?
Do you want to exchange actions with others?
Do you want to get many free actions for your photos, art, pictures?

Yes, I found through flickr by Pink Peony

by Pink Peony Photography
Pink Peony Photography got free actions from website named atncentral

There are so many, many, many free actions that you can choose.
Check out here

That is just examples of actions that Pink Peony Photography downloaded.
It's B's Split Tone 2 by Barbel Wilm.
It's stunning, isn't it?

You'll like or hooked on playing with free actions.
Thank you for stopping by.

Removing Make Up in Photoshop

noreply@blogger.com (Deedee) — Tue, 24 Mar 2009 02:56:00 +0000

Are you wondering how to remove make up in Photoshop?

I found this great video tutorial which that titled " Removing Make Up in Photoshop" because that's rated with five stars. It's awesome, isn't it?

It's easy to understand as well as to do. Hopefully, you like this video tutorial.

How To Make Bokeh

noreply@blogger.com (Deedee) — Mon, 23 Mar 2009 01:11:00 +0000

click here

Roseonthegrey gave her secret of how to make bokeh. It's awesome, isn't it?

These photos were taken with the Nikon AF Nikkor 50mm f/1.8D lens at F1.8. Christmas lights were hung with a red blanket as the background. First photo is "focused" while the second photo is "unfocused." Unfocused Christmas lights appear as bokeh "bubbles", and, depending on your lens's aperture and vignetting, can also appear as hexagons, etc.

This techniques does work best with apertures wider F2.0. With apertures narrower than F3.5, you would have to increase the distance between the camera and light source significantly.

For more information of bokeh, you can search here
Happy playing !!

Wermade of Carbon and Osmosis by Roseonthegrey

noreply@blogger.com (Deedee) — Thu, 12 Feb 2009 10:15:00 +0000

Here I found very great tutorial through Roseonthegrey who has a great conceptual taste of photography . However, you can also find much more tutorials (she just created her new website), check out here

It's easy, isn't it ? Okay, let's try for fun !!

The Result :

You will need:

A square vase
Styrofoam
A needle, small nail, or pin
A background (paper, fabric, laptop monitor)
A cherry or some other object
A small bottle of plain seltzer water/carbonated water/sparkling water/etc (you can also use sodas but because of their sugar content, clean-up can get quite sticky)
Towels for cleanup

Procedures

Cut a rectangular piece of Styrofoam that is about 1/2in longer than the length of the square vase. The Styrofoam piece’s width should match that of the square vase. The extra length will allow the Styrofoam to push against the square vase. The resulting tension should hold the Styrofoam in place.
Place the cherry on the Styrofoam piece at the desired location. Secure the cherry in place with a needle, small nail or pin. The needle should penetrate the cherry at an angle to most effectively secure the cherry and keep it from floating. Bending the needle will also help secure the cherry.
Push the Styrofoam into the square vase. Be careful not to crack the Styrofoam! Push on the sides along the length of the Styrofoam for the best results. Adjust and cut the Styrofoam as needed.
Place the square vase in front of a background. A laptop monitor was used for Osmosis (See: Results - Right) while a Fossil watch-box was used for wermadeofCARBON (See: Results - Left). A laptop monitor acts as an extra light source so if too bright may cause underexposure of the foreground.
Add the seltzer water! Wait a few minutes for bubbles to form. The longer you wait, generally the larger the bubbles. Do not shake or move the square vase. Movement will keep bubbles from forming on the cherry’s surface.
Play with different backgrounds – solids, stripes, polka dots, dark, light – and see how they affect the appearance of the cherry and bubbles.
Set up your camera, preferably on a tripod and shoot. A macro setting or macro lens is preferred. If you do not have a macro lens, a small magnifying glass can create a great macro effect. Both wermadeofCARBON and Osmosis were taken at 18mm with a magnifying glass.
Clean up!

Inexpensive Lens for Beginner (Canon User Only)

noreply@blogger.com (Deedee) — Sat, 27 Dec 2008 04:05:00 +0000

Click Review

If you'd like to buy telephoto lens to take portraits, perhaps you should take professional photographer's advise like below.

Professional Photographer says:
"Buy an inexpensive prime lens that stops down to at least f1.8 (like the Canon 50mm f1.8 lens). You can get one for under $100. A prime or fixed-focal length lens will be the quickest and best way to understand aperture. And a solid understanding of aperture is absolutely essential to taking good photos".

Just be patient and then saving accounts to buy very expensive lens if you'd like.
Hopefully, you're not wrong to buy what lens you dream of.

CoffeeShop - Free Actions and Tutorial - Great !!

noreply@blogger.com (Deedee) — Thu, 18 Dec 2008 11:08:00 +0000

Coincidentally, I found this through Flickr's forum and checked out there. Yes, this is very, very, very great to learn how to create actions because this owner made many tutorials about that. You can check out there whatever you want to know and then you will learn step by step. Me, too, still learn more and more. There are so many great tutorials, installing actions, template-Paper-Patterns, etc.

Click here

Cretead by Rita, Owner of Coffeeshop

BARISTA ACTION FOR PS AND PSE
1. Open the image you wish to process.

2. File then Duplicate (opens a copy of your file to work on so your original does not get altered, great to see Before/After)

3. LEVELS: Add a Levels Adjustment layer. Use your black eyedropper to click on something black to remove any color cast. You can also click on something white with the white eye dropper. If your photo looks worse, then reset and click somewhere else until you get the look you want. Then adjust Level's sliders to taste. I usually move the midpoint over to the left a bit to lighten the midtones.

4. DODGE/BURN: Add a new blank Layer above Levels and call it Dodge/Burn. Fill it with 50% gray and put the blending mode in Overlay or Softlight. Type B to get your brush tool and use a low opacity (10% or so) soft brush and paint over anything you want lightened. I usually paint over skin and eyes to brighten them a bit. Then, using a low opacity soft black brush, paint over anything you want darkened. I usually darken the background some, or you can use this method to paint a vignette around the edges of your photo. Increase the opacity to 25% or so if you are
doing a vignette. If you completely mess up, then just Edit then Fill Layer then 50% gray and it returns your layer back to the original setting, and repaint.

5. CONTRAST: Select Background, Ctrl-J to make a copy. Change the blending mode to Soft Light and move the opacity down to 25%.

6. SHARPEN: Select Background, Ctrl-J to make a copy. Run the Unsharp Mask over this layer to sharpen your image. I usually start with Amount 125%, Radius 1, Threshold 3. Put the blending mode into Luminosity. Adjust opacity as needed.

7. Color Saturation: Select the Dodge/Burn layer and add a new Hue/Saturation layer above it. Put the Saturation setting on 20 and change the blending mode to Color, Opacity 20%.

8. B&W/Muted Color: Now add a Gradient Map Adjustment layer on top. Make sure it is set to Black, foreground to transparent. This is a great way to turn your photo B&W. Now adjust the opacity of this layer to 0% to keep your photo color, 100% for B&W, or anywhere in between for muted colors. You can also make a B&W image with “colorized” parts. Just adjust the opacity to 100% (so your photo is B&W) and use a soft black brush (opacity of choice depending on how vivid you want the colored parts to be) and paint over anything you want in color.

9. Now you can adjust all of your layers to taste. The opacity's I gave you are just a starting point so don’t be afraid to change them.

10. Flatten your image and save! Rerun the action on this image once again to get a really vivid photo.

If you want to install BARISTA ACTION FOR PS AND PSE, you can check out blog of coffeeshop.

Enjoy experimenting with actions !!

Best Lenses For Travel Photography

noreply@blogger.com (Deedee) — Sun, 14 Dec 2008 05:24:00 +0000

Written by digital photography school blogger, Darren Rowse.

"As I’ve said above, when I travel these days I tend to take 2 lenses - one is a versatile zoom which will cover a range of focal lengths and the other is a light weight, small and fast prime lens (a prime lens is one with a fixed focal length. Prime lenses are traditionally good quality and faster than zooms). Of course the two lenses I talk about below are based upon my own budget, photographic style and preferences. I’ve added a few other alternatives into the mix which others might consider".

Special for CANON SHOOTER

1. Lens Canon EF 24 - 105 MM F/4 L IS

I list it here for a number of reasons:

• it’s image quality is renowned as one of the best zoom lenses going around. This is an ‘L’ series lens which is a ‘luxury’ or Pro level.

• focal length is wide and will cover a variety of situations and needs

• while f/4 isn’t super fast it will do you fine in many lighting situations - especially anything shot in daylight. It’s f/4 across all focal lengths so it is faster than the 18-55mm at full extension.

• this lens has Image Stabilization (IS) which will allow you to handhold shots at up to 2 stops faster than normal (this means in low light you can slow your shutter speed a couple of stops without suffering camera shake).

Of course for every positive there is a negative and this camera’s include:

• Weight/Size - this is not the lightest lens going around and by the end of a day of it hanging around your neck you’ll know about it

• Price - the weight it adds to your neck will be taken from your wallet - it’s not cheap

• Speed - as I say above, f/4 is ok, but it’s not the fastest option going around.

Alternatives to the 24-105mm f/4L IS

A couple of alternatives come to mind.

• Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L USM - in the same price league and with similar quality and weight, but faster (aperture of 2.8 across all focal lengths), without image stabilization, shorter zoom range. So if you’re shooting at low light a lot (especially moving objects which IS won’t freeze) and you don’t mind loosing the top end focal length it might be an option.

• Canon EF 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM - this is a much more affordable option but you do sacrifice image quality (as you’d expect). It has a longer focal length, still has Image Stabilization and at 28mm is faster than the 24-105mm (but is slower at the other end of the zoom). It’s also a bit lighter and smaller. I’ve owned this lens for a while now and have usually included it in my kit when traveling. It’s images are not as good as my L series lenses but it’s a good general purpose lens.

2. Lens Canon 50 mm f/1.8 II Camera Lens

Whereas my last suggestion was very expensive this one is at the opposite end of the spectrum in terms of cost and is one of the most affordable lenses you’ll find in the Canon range when you consider the quality of the images it produces.

While this lens is not much to look at in terms of size, weight or even construction it is significantly faster than any of the other lenses mentioned above at f/1.8. This will allow you to shoot at quite low light levels, especially if you up your ISO (remember you get grain at higher ISO). I use this lens when I don’t want to lug the other one around with me (I leave it locked up at the hotel), especially at night.

The Positives for this lens are:

• Speed - f/1.8 is the fastest lens I’ve currently got in my collection. It’s great indoors especially when a flash is not allowed or appropriate.

• Weight/Size - you can fit it in your pocket easily and will hardly know it’s there - perfect for taking out at night or when you need to travel especially light

• Price - last time I looked on Amazon it was just over $100 USD

• Quality - while it’s no ‘L’ Series lens many argue that when you consider it’s price it’s one of the best quality lenses going around on a ‘dollar to quality ratio’.

• Focal length - although you’re limited to one focal length it is a useful one. I find it works well with portraits and in getting in nice and close for tightly framed shots of things in street-scapes etc.

On the downside of this lens:

• Focal length - it is a handy length for some shots but not having a zoom can be frustrating if you’re used to that. It’s also a little too long for landscapes (especially on non full frame cameras where it’s the equivalent of an 80mm lens.

• Build Quality - this lens can be a little hard to take seriously when you first pick it up because it’s so light that it feels like a toy. It’s quite ‘plasticy’. It is also a reasonably noisy lens and not the fastest at focussing in low light.

Alternatives to the 50mm f/1.8

The following lenses are alternatives to the 50mm f/1.8 in terms of their speed and size

• Canon EF 50mm f1.4 USM - if the focal length is right but you’re a bit put off by the quality of the f/1.8 lens you might want to spend a bit more (actually it’s more than 4 times more) and get it’s faster big brother - the f/1.4 version. Once again it’s small, light and takes sharp pictures. Despite it being more expensive it’s still quite reasonably priced and is significantly better in terms of quality of build and image. While I love my f/1.8 I wish I’d spent a little more and got this one instead.

• Canon EF 28mm f/1.8 USM - worth considering also when using a non full frame camera is a wider angle lens like this 28mm one (equivalent of a 45mm lens). In many ways this one has a very similar feature list to the f/1.4 lens. It’s small, light, fast and not too expensive.

• Canon EF 20mm f/2.8 USM - go even wider angle with a 20mm lens. It’s not as small as either of the 50mm lenses but is still small enough and gets some very positive reviews.

--- Hopefully you don't get wrong to buy which lens you need for your trip ---

DSLR Canon Beginner

noreply@blogger.com (Deedee) — Mon, 08 Dec 2008 03:55:00 +0000

For you who are so newbie to DSLR Canon.

But you still don't understand how to adjust exposure (learn about aperture and shutter speed), it highly recommended you checking out here

It's very great instructions that you can learn step by step.

And
You can also check out Digital Photography Tips for Beginners,
click here

Well, happy exploring with your DSLR Canon and another DSLR cameras

Adobe Camera RAW - Using the HSL/Grayscale Tab

noreply@blogger.com (Deedee) — Tue, 02 Dec 2008 13:23:00 +0000

For Adobe Camera RAW user, who usually uses the basics tab to tweak white balance, improve specific areas of exposure and contrast, making your image to look more sharp, crisp, and vibrant when needed.

But how about the HSL / Grayscale Tab?
Well, this article that I found at Geoff Lawrence's website, might be helpful for all of you.

It actually written and submitted by Don Moughamian, as Geoff said on his website.

The Hues Tab
The first of our HSL tabs focuses on Hues (or regions of specific color). Moving one of the eight hue sliders can (if the hue is present in your image) shift that specific color region to a different but directly related hue. Again, you might decide to make an area of green more yellow-green or more blue-green. Or, maybe you wish to make a region of orange more red-orange or more yellow-orange.
..... You can click here for the further instructions.

The Saturation Tab
We will look at the Saturation tab. As mentioned in the previous section, saturation effects the purity of a specific region of color. Saturation controls are common in image editing software but very few products offer the level of control and non-destructive benefits of the HSL panel in Adobe Camera Raw.
.... You can click here for the more instructions.

The Lumincance Tab
Luminance refers to the lightness or perceived brightness of the colors we are targeting in the HSL panel. One more, you need to adjust only those sliders which have an effect in the Hue and Saturation tabs, and in many cases you may only need to adjust one or two of them.
..... You can click here.

Enjoy experimenting.

How to make actions

noreply@blogger.com (Deedee) — Mon, 24 Nov 2008 03:53:00 +0000

You don't have to buy actions, but you can also create by experimenting with photo shop.
I found this tutorial of how to make actions from caffeine_overdosed
Hopefully this is very helpful for you all.

Photoshop, Caffeine uses Photoshop version 7.0 so this MAY NOT work in lower versions.
She grabed a random stock image she got mine from http://yellow-stock-deviantart.com
So, what things do you want to do with the image, purple or blue, sharp or blurry?

First off all, you open Photoshop.
Then you created a new document and paste your image on a new layer. Before you do much more, open Notepad or your other word processing program. Play around with you image until you get the desired result, all the while keeping a record of everything you done in Notepad.

Two steps
Now you're happy with your image, it's time to make the action to reproduce the effect. Open a new document and again paste the image on a new layer. If you don't have the actions window showing then go to WINDOWS > ACTIONS or ALT + F9. Then, create a new actions folder and within that create a new action.

Three steps.
Now simply redo all the steps that you have recorded in Notepad. Be careful of things like copying and pasting the image, a better solution is to duplicate the original image and drag it to the top seeing as you won't always have your image on clipboard. Also, in a lot of cases I find it is a good idea to merge the layers at the end of an action for ease of use. Press "stop button" to finish.

Four steps.
This step is optional and only needs to be used if you plan on moving the actions and / or uploading to the internet or other things as such. Select the folder you have the action in and press the arrow on the side of the window and select "save action". The action will be in C/Program Files/ Adobe Photoshop 7.0/ Presets/ Photoshop Actions /

LAST - THE RESULT.
How things turned out.

Enjoy yourself by experimenting actions.

Bokeh Tutorial and Bokeh Texture - by h-d-stock -

noreply@blogger.com (Deedee) — Wed, 19 Nov 2008 09:03:00 +0000

As you know that bokeh can be beautiful for photos.
Well, if you're wondering how you can make bokeh for photos, but you don't have a DSLR or even a lens. Maybe you still have just a compact camera. No matter which camera you have. However, you will be lucky if you can do with photoshop. Here is bokeh tutorial by h-d-stock that I found her projects on deviantart. If you want to take a peep at her photos, click here
Hope you like this bokeh tutorial. It's really easy, isn't it?

If you want to download some bokeh texture from h-d-stock, click here
Or another bokeh textures you can click here

Great Manipulation - by Heilemania -

noreply@blogger.com (Deedee) — Mon, 27 Oct 2008 15:13:00 +0000

Click here
and
deviantart

This is very awesome of manipulation photos.

Photoshop Tutorial - by Lune -

noreply@blogger.com (Deedee) — Thu, 23 Oct 2008 14:41:00 +0000

This is very, very, very helpful if you want to know how to manipulate with Photoshop.
Well, you can visit here

In addition, Lune has make up tutorial, click here

Lune wrote:
Some people have been asking me how do I put my model or another subject on the grass making it seem like it belongs to the background, with the grass over the subject. It's a very very simple procedure, everyone will be able to do it.
I hope you find this tutorial useful and fun!

After my last Poll, many of you asked me a Tutorial with some lighting tips.
Like I can't say no, here it is an easy tutorial with 2 great lighting tips which help you improve the final result of your work in many ways!
These 2 techiques are the ones I use almost all the time and, I wanted to share it with you guys. I hope you find it helpful.
Please read my Journal for usage rules. Thank you.

Great Manipulation - by Princess of Shadows -

noreply@blogger.com (Deedee) — Thu, 23 Oct 2008 01:32:00 +0000

You can click here

She makes very great manipulation with Photoshop

She made it with textures to make it look beautiful.

And you can also visit her blog

Great Manipulation - by Liek -

noreply@blogger.com (Deedee) — Mon, 20 Oct 2008 04:19:00 +0000

This is great manipulation of pictures.
Click here

This owner also has her own textures. So awesome that made with textures.

Awweee so cute of kitten photo !!

Fashion Photos by WinterWolfStudio

noreply@blogger.com (Deedee) — Fri, 10 Oct 2008 01:46:00 +0000

Wanna take a peek at Fashion photos?
Well, you can click here

You can also take a peep at WinterWolfStudio's deviantart
Awesome !

Action by Red Leaf - Part7 -

noreply@blogger.com (Deedee) — Fri, 19 Sep 2008 10:30:00 +0000

Wedding photos of Red Leaf ... wouw !!

Click Red Leaf

Click Wedding website
Really wonderful !!

Click Red Leaf actions